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Typically found on the left side of the chest, a pocket doesn’t add much utility to a T-shirt by way of utility—it’s small and looks kinda weird when not empty—or adornment, considering that it’s usually the same color as the shirt underneath. It does, however, alter the aesthetics of the garment. The pocket T-shirt is an enduring style because it provides just enough interest to distinguish a shirt without making it feel like any less like a wardrobe staple.
As with most garments, a key factor to consider when buying a pocket T-shirt is the fabric. The most ubiquitous material, cotton, comes in a dizzying array of varieties, weaves, and weights. Other materials, natural and synthetic, typically blended with the fabric of our lives, have their own effects on the comfort and durability of pocket tees. All of this variation means that there are pocket tees on sale for $5 and $500, between which are many other options.
Purchasing a pocket tee (or tees) suited to one’s own preferences is the kind of small pleasure, like a really good stapler or smooth-grinding pepper mill, that’s always worth spending a bit more money. T-shirts aren’t particularly new or exciting on their own, but the right one can make the wearer look better, a confidence boost that, taken with the physical comfort of a soft, well-fitting shirt, adds up to a garment that elevates whenever it’s worn. Finding the right pocket tee, in other words, is an endeavor worth pursuing.
What the Experts Say
Sources within the textiles industry are quick to celebrate the virtues of cotton. Frej Lewenhaupt of Scandinavian clothing care brand Steamery says that cotton is “a durable material that feels soft and comfortable to wear. Cotton T-shirts are able to handle more machine-washing, tumble-drying, and ironing given the strength of the fibers.” And beyond just looking for cotton, Lewenhaupt recommends choosing a high-quality cotton like Pima or Supima.
Todd Moore, director of development for the textile business at Milliken & Company, agrees that cotton is one of the softest fabrics around, but he also notes that synthetics can have some advantages. They’re potentially recyclable, more durable, and shrink less than cotton shirts, depending on the specific materials used.
BEST OVERALL
Buck Mason Slub Classic Pocket Tee
Buck Mason’s T-shirts lines are defined by their fabrics. Pima cotton, lightweight slub, indigo-dyed and hemp-cotton blends are among their many options, but their field-spec shirt is the toughest of the bunch. At 310 grams per square meter, it’s twice as heavy as their standard tee, in the same ballpark as materials like denim and heavy linen. Lewenhaupt recommends gauging the quality of a T-shirt by its construction along with the feel of the fabric, and the stitching on this shirt is clearly sturdy enough to match the fabric.
These shirts come pre-washed for a soft texture that makes them feel lived-in from the first wear, and they have a classic fit that’s not too boxy or too tight. The heaviness of the tee might not make it the best option for the height of summer, but on just warm to chilly days it’s a supremely comfortable choice.
BEST IN A TON OF COLORS
Todd Snyder Made in L.A. Homespun Slub Pocket T-Shirt
There’s a button on the pockets of these tees, available in 14 colors, that takes the impracticality of the pocket T-shirt pocket up a notch. All of the colorways are made of slub cotton yarn (irregular fibers that add subtle depth to the finished product) that’s reactive garment-dyed, a technique that the brand says creates exceptional color fastness through many wash cycles.
BEST STRIPED
Double RL Striped Pocket T-Shirt
This pocket T-shirt is eye-catching thanks to the stripes of varying thickness, purposeful irregularities, and color palette inspired by the American Southwest. The pocket is the same material, but the fact that it doesn’t line up with the rest of the shirt sets it apart and provides a dash of visual interest.
BEST OVERSIZED
John Elliot Reconstructed Pocket T-Shirt
This T-shirt d’arte from designer John Elliott is 100 percent cotton, but its patchwork construction from segments made pieces of thermal, heavyweight and knitted jacquard shows how much more nuance there is to this material. The slight color variations, highly visible stitching, and asymmetrical hem make this a
BEST SILK BLEND
Isaiah Short-Sleeve Pocket T-Shirt
A 60/40 silk-cotton blend from a Neapolitan tailoring house that’s been around for more than a century seems like overkill for a garment that’s typically more of a workhorse than a showpiece. That being said, it’s hard not to admire a pocket T-shirt that retains the conservative styling of the form despite the opulence of its construction, in the process making the latter something of a secret between garment and wearer.
BEST SPLURGE
Thom Browne Stripe Trim Pocket T-Shirt
This grey pocket T-shirt is made with cotton that’s been mercerized, a process that involves stretching it and treating it with a caustic alkali. Mercerization results in a stronger, more lustrous fabric that’s also more accepting of dyes for added colorfastness. The other design details, namely the stripes on the pocket and neck and the buttons on the side vents, add some sportiness to this slim-fitting tee, which looks and feels like the thoughtfully designed garment it is.
BEST LONG-SLEEVED
J. Crew Relaxed Long-Sleeve Premium Weight Cotton T-Shirt
For cool but not cold days or as a base layer in the colder months, long sleeves are a must. The 7.4-ounce cotton feels hearty but not heavy, and its ample softness is well-suited to the relaxed, comfortable cut that’s roomier across the chest and shoulders than other J.Crew T-shirts. The marled cotton—two different yarn colors twisted together—results in a look that’s like a more interesting version of standard heathered grey.
BEST VINTAGE WASH
Alex Mill Vintage Wash Pocket Tee
Vintage wash is just what it sounds like: a new item that’s made to look old, faded and worn in the comforting way a well-loved baseball glove is. This Alex Mill number, available in seven muted colors, is a classic example. The best touch is that 60 percent of its fibers are recycled, so the “soft and drapey” shirt has some real antiqueness in its DNA.
Frequently Asked Questions About Pocket T-Shirts
Will pocket t-shirts ever go out of style?
The T-shirt is the closest thing there is to a universal garment, as it’s popular across national, economic, and cultural lines. The subtle finish of a pocket on a T-shirt, despite its limited utility, feels like the kind of stylistic touch, like rivets on blue jeans or a crisp bow tie worn with a tux, that’s not flashy enough to ever fall out of fashion.
What should be stored in the pocket of a pocket t-shirt?
Traditionally the breast pocket has been a place for pens (with pen protector) and packs of cigarettes, both of which have become less popular for reasons technological and carcinogenic, respectively. The best bet is probably just to leave it empty, avoiding weird chest bulges in favor of a more polished look. But if you must store something there, a pair of (sun)glasses typically fits nicely.
Why is the pocket in a pocket t-shirt always on the wearer’s left?
The origins of that tendency are unclear, but the logical reason would be the simple fact that most people are right-handed and it’s easier to grab something from a chest pocket across the body. Is there a market for pocket T-shirts designed for lefties? Ask Ned Flanders.